Ethanol Sux a motorcycle post finally

EthanolSuxTheProblem

Their lots of studies and opinions on the use of Ethanol in gasoline. My opinion is that it sux especially if you let your motorcycle sit due to outside factors. This is even more an issue with a metal gas tank on the motorcycle like my KLR650. Ethanol is hygroscopic and several studies show that no additive can fix this. Therefore if you let ethanol gas sit you are going to have issues as it pulls moisture from the air and sits until phase separation happens. Then the corrosive gel of water and ethanol goes to work. Lots of sources say less than 4 weeks for phase separation so a carbureted bike is even more at risk if you do not drain. DRAIN that tank and float bowl is the only real solution.

For reference. No Additive will help you completely.

The Issue:

High moisture fuel left in the metal tank causes rust and ethanol phase separation causes water ethanol gel to be trapped in the bottom of the tank making it worse. You know right by the petcock that feeds the carb, so It also plays heck with carburetors. Phase separation leaves that nonflammable gel in your float bowl to clog your idle jets too. I have not opened that can of yuk yet.

You can see below the rust collected from inside the tank, about 1/2 inch in the bucket. The funk in the tank before I started. The extra step to remove all the rust that turned white vinegar brown.

The Solution:

EthanolSuxTheSolution

I hope this is the solution to my issues. The were several brands of liners but I just went with the amazon reviews. I am impressed so far as kbs-coatings support was very helpful. I did panic and get an extra 8oz of coating, but it was not needed. The KLR650 tank says it is larger that 5 gallons, but I have never gotten more that 5.1 gallons in it. I did as noted above use a extra pass with vinegar to remove all the rust prior to their RustBlast (Phosphoric acid and zinc phosphate pre-primer).

I have not cleaned out the carb yet. but that is a known issue and easy to do. knock knock. Well anytime you let it sit over 4 weeks you will get phase separation so you get good a idle jet cleaning.

The Results:

I got out the bore scope to ensure I got even coverage and that I did not need the second can. The KLR650 tank is an ugly shape inside, so it was hard to see otherwise. Here are some results. Fortunately the tank did not leak or had not rusted through. There are some thick spots in the welded seams that did bubble but look coated in the pit of the bubbles. There are two spots that look like the coverage is not complete along both sides of the saddle hump in the nose of the tank, but I don’t know that I can get the coating there anyhow. The vent pipe got coated too which is nice.

I also let the coating cure an extra long time as I was worried about temperature and humidity. It is TX after all. KBS coatings support was super supportive of my questions about the risk of temperature and humidity on curing times. Please be advised this is not a TX summer project. 55°- 82°F (13°- 28°C) is the recommended temp range for installation and low humidity helps as it is a moisture curing urethane. 6 hours till dry and 5 days to fully cure. I caught a break and got a mid to high 70’s spring morning with < 50% humidity right before a normal TX spring week of hot and rainy. I would have loved lower temps and humidity to get a longer working time, but was too chicken to do it in the house.

I just error-ed on longer to cure post install to be safe. Ok, I got caught up in life you know distracted…..Isn’t that what got me into this mess? Now what to do with two gallons of phase separated E10 gas sludge that I removed from the tank prior to cleaning. Glad it was not the full 5 gallons…:( how long did it sit to evaporate that much and rust that bad?

Hydroponic Garden Automation and Monitoring

HydroGardenAutomation_main

Normally my hobbies get mixed up. I had been playing around with Home Assistant to automate my house. Yes my projects are always on the shoulders of others, and the Home assistant folks make a great open source tool that is mostly easy to use, and runs on a RaspberryPi with a pre-built image. My Hydroponic Garden got two great advances from this, Automation and Monitoring.

Background for independent automation

Reddit is surprisingly great community for hobbyist you can find lots of useful hints there. I found this one about Topgreener Wifi Smart Plugs that were available on Amazon for a great deal. They stopped selling the 4 packs and sell the 2 packs for the same price as 4, so no link. It mentions you can use the tuya convert to update them to ESPHome without having to crack them open and “upgrade” the firmware manually. Another user also provides information on how to get the Energy Monitoring working. The best part is once you upgrade them they no longer require talking to the “mother ship.” Home automation without the cloud or proprietary apps that call home.

Automation upgrades

HydroGardenAutomation_main

The Hydroponic Garden got its own dashboard to control the automation of the lights and pumps. This is a much better solution than the old plug timers that would not keep time after a power outage. My neighborhood suffers from poor power reliability, but since all the devices run network time. It gets reset after outage so my lights run consistently.

Monitoring Upgrades

The upgrade of the firmware on the Top Greener TGWF115PQM plugs was super simple after reviewing the Reddit post linked above. This allows me to monitor the power used by my HydroGarden and ensure the Mars-Hydro lights are not getting too old. I’m still running my original burple reflector lights from 2018, so if it ain’t broke no need to fix it. They are still very good lights that use under 250 W and Home Assistant provides great graphs to track the overall Total Daily Energy consumption.

I also get to monitor the Temperature which is why Hydroponics is a winter only hobby for me. I cannot pay to heat up my house with LED lights and then use Air Conditioning to cool it down and remove the excess Humidity. This is provided by a ESP01/8266 and a DHT11 temperature sensor that I got from Amazon of course as the shipping times direct from China are still broken. I would love to not pay the amazon tax and get directly from AliExpress since they have the same vendors.

Well yet another reason I’m a of all trades and master of none. Hobbies require too many disciplines to be the best at any one.

Box of fabric shorts learning

Box of fabric shorts August 1029 box

Almost every order from Sailrite, I throw in a box of fabric shorts, as it is a great challenge to me to make something from the highly discounted fabrics inside. I never know what I will find inside, but they have been great fun. Previous boxes have yielded trix-or-treat-market-tote market-totes-again The August 2019 box was especially fun, and here are the things I built to learn.

Box of fabric shorts first piece

I got a great solid oak table as a hand me down from a friend, but my backside needed relief. I made some cushions for it. It was great practice for zipper plaques and getting the pattern to line up on the edge consistently. It was odd as the fabric had an 10 inch repeat on an 12 inch cushion.

Box of fabric shorts second piece

The second piece out of the box was twenty seven inches of a nice vinyl coated fabric. I decided it would be a great protective bag for my folding solar panes for my Off grid Solar setup. Planning and layout was a challenge as the panels even folded are 24 inches square.

Once the plan was done and the pieces cut. I assembled them including a zipper plaque and continuous zipper install. The thin strip is the 24 by 1/2 inch remnant of the original piece it was a tight fit.

Once I got it sewn I turned it out and tested the panel fit. Perfect all 300 watts, or three by 100 watt panels and the extension cord fit inside perfectly.

Box of fabric shorts Still surprises in the box

There is a lot of learning and fun in the box still.

Trix or Treat Market Tote

market tote

I watched Sailrite’s Market Tote howto which was the basis for the Insulated trix or treat tote bag.   The Halloween color scheme was great.  You got to have a way to keep the beer cold while your trick or treating.

I had been trying the blue apron meals for recipe ideas.  However there was a lot of packaging in getting  meal ingredients delivered.   It piles up when you don’t have curb side recycling.   Well the knock off reflectix was just begging for a project not quite electronics upcycling but recycling is good.

low R value insulation
recycling the Blue apron packing

The tote was kind of built on the fly.    It is hard to make a pattern when using scraps and recycling materials.    It came out pretty nice.  A bit crooked on one seam as the faux leatherette slipped a bit.  I will need some more projects before I get into the fresh leather.   You don’t want to make a mistake in leather and have extra holes.

The box of shorts had some fun inside.

 

HP 2840 carousel brake solenoid repair

The new drum is installed, and I can finally close a project that  started a long while ago.   I really prefer fixing things to replacing them as it would just end up in the landfill.  Sadly you can buy a new LED “laser” printer for the same price as the drum I replaced.

The original issue was it was printing blank pages.  Is this a poor design on planned obsolescence?   After searching the issue on the internet for awhile I found a single post in  an HP forum that said.

“The latch can be fixed by disassembling the solenoid and cleaning off some sticky residue from deteriorated foam and replacing it with a thin piece of material. I use really thin felt stickers from a dollar store.”

This led to the picture you see above where the printer is disassembled all over the healing bench.   That little foam pad was way down inside the printer.  The solenoid was fine but the little foam pad was just a sticky spot.  It went back together and the little muffin pan had no spare screws left over.    That has been a great habit to use the muffin pan to hold the screws as you take them out.    It has reduced the lost  and leftover screw problem in my repairs.

It did fix the issue, but the drum had gotten some schmutz on it and after all of that.  The  print quality suffered a big stripe down the left side of the page.    I ordered a new one, and now am back in the printing business.   This is a relief as I had just put four new toner cartridges in and did not want to waste the $ as this old printer is a HP dinosaur but makes quality prints in color and has a great flatbed scanner that can be accessed over the built in network card.

Industrial Design lessons II

I keep adding more tools to my tool box, and expanding the knowledge of the tools already in use.  It is why I have some many projects going on.  I want to learn new things or more about things I already know.  I continue to invest in learning FreeCAD.  The tool amazes me, each time I use it.  I find it better and easier to use.  Practice practice practice…  Pick a tool and use it.   Well I’ve been tinkering with Tinkercad too, but with some residual AutoCAD skills from my school days.   I am more comfortable in the FreeCAD interface and methodologies.

I had always used OpenSCAD either standalone on in FreeCAD workbench, as my go to design tool.   Today I started testing an new module LCInterlocking for FreeCAD.  It is why the open source community is so great.   Great tool and then people invest their time to make modules for it to make it greater.   This tool seamlessly integrated into FreeCAD and has its own workbench and easy to follow video tutorials.

I still need to work on my Industrial Design but the new box has better tab strength and a slot for all connection access.  It is a little less visually appealing, but I though the original revision the tabs were too small.  The kerf  on the cut was too tight and the box was very tight to assemble.  I may need to adjust the laser cutter’s focal length to prevent tapper in the cuts.

I know what your thinking.  I should have added a place to include the switches in the box with access like these.   That is why you build projects to learn new tools and how to best utilize them.  I will just use the painter’s tape to hold them on top for now.

Industrial Design lessons

I am not an industrial designer, but I need to refresh some of the basics basics.  I had gotten a driver board for some old LCD screens that were salvaged from a Lenovo W510 laptop which overheated.  It was a great panel with high resolution and good black.    The driver board was great and easy to use, but lacked any case.  I have been using it as an extra display for configuring my Ordoid and Raspberry Pi’s prior to adding them to the cluster.    I found it much handier that a full monitor for quick an easy configuration.

Now that I have a laser cutter I can make custom cases for project so I don’t have to leave things like the driver board on my desk like a hazard.  I mainly use FreeCAD, but prefer OpenSCAD for 3D part creation .  I have not yet reviewed  or updated sheet metal fabrication and card stock box techniques into the CAD world.  I had learned back in the mechanical drafting classes taken in my past.  Yes I’m old enough to have taken pencil and paper drafting classes.   I guess that will have to be updated.   What to do to create plans for cases….

I headed over to MakerCase to build a box.    If you have not used their tool it is super easy, and has great results as you can see.   However, my ability to measure and line up the ports was lacking.    I also missed the check box for “inside dimensions”  so a bit tight.  My only reservation about the tool is there is not size control on the output.    That is a minor inconvenience that InkScape fixed right up.

I wonder if I should do a rev 0.2….   For another day….